🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.