Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
